Haenyo and me.

There are many things that fascinate me about Korean culture. The kimchi, the soju, the pop scene, the paternalism; I'm captivated by all of these. However, nothing gets me more excited than Haenyo, or Korea's 'women of the sea.'

Haenyo are essentially woman divers. They make their living by searching Korea's southern waters for abalone, octopus, and various mollusk-like beings whose names escape me. But here's the catch: they do it alone, without a boat, and without oxygen. Haenyo have notoriously strong lungs, and are known to stay submerged deep in difficult waters for minutes at a time. In a country where machismo runs rampant, I simply don't see any of the men holding a candle to the harrowing achievements of most Haenyo.

But their community is dying. The Haenyo are an exclusively female group, and whether they encourage it or not, Haenyo daughters are choosing not to carry on the tradition. Young Korean women no longer see the point of the profession. They would rather be secretaries or teachers, and avoid the tough skin, broad shoulders, and inherent dangers that are undeniable parts of their mothers' existence. Furthermore, despite the clear honor in their charge, Haenyo are often not afforded any special treatment by their husbands or other men of their generation. Korea's paternalism is supreme in this case. This seems to be another reason that the younger generations are staying away. The question for young Korean women seems to be, 'Why would I commit to such an arduous occupation if I won't be given due respect at home?' It's a valid question indeed.

Regardless, today's Haenyo continue on. Most of these women are in their 50's and 60's. They have safely reached 'ajumma' status in Korea. But all they know how to do is be Haenyo. In a country whose youth are stringently dedicated to modernization, these women are the last bastions of an older time. In my opinion, they're like cattle hurders of the old west, or shoemakers for that matter. Their profession is one where machines have more or less taken over, but they continue on.

I almost lost it when I saw a small community of Haenyo at my local beach. Many people told me I would have to make a trip to Jeju Island if I wanted to see them. I figured I would at least have to head several hours southwest on the mainland. Never could I have imagined they would be in my backyard. My friends didn't quite get the allure, but I honestly felt like I was in the presence of a celebrity. The water is cold this time of year! I wouldn't dare go swimming, but the Haenyo didn't seem too bothered. A small rubber suit seemed to be more than enough. Anyway, enough ranting... simply put, it was an experience I'll never forget.