Hey remember that... before the recession? Pt. 12

Times were simple. Life was good.

Humble Observations

- It has rained many times since I've been in Korea, but only this morning did I hear thunder.
- Koreans seem to believe that with rain must come umbrellas. Rain jackets are basically only for hiking or a secondary line of defense.
- Korean baseball games are much more fun than their yankee counterpart.
- There is no such thing as understated Korean music. It's all tears or bombast.
- The notion of not owning a cell phone, or not using yours constantly is completely alien to most Koreans.
- Most Koreans will have a cell phone from the time they turn ~ 7 years old.
- Many Korean married couples don't wear their wedding rings.
- Nobody wears black better than Korean women.

Xander Berkeley

This guy will always sketch me out. I absolutely blame the movie Poison Ivy II for this.

The Diminutive, Hennesy-loving Elephant in the Room

(the title of this pic says it all: North Korea is Dark.)

One of the strangest parts of living in South Korea is having to share a border the world's most belligerent and mysterious state: North Korea. I am reminded of this fact almost weekly, though not by anything I see or experience here. Most of my North Korea thoughts emerge because of my American friends and their curiosities/concerns, most of which sound something like this: 'Are you worried?' 'Are Koreans worried?' 'Do you feel safe?' I'm not surprised by these questions. More than anything else, they serve as valid reminders of how irrepressibly doom and gloom American newscasts are. The truth is, it could be really bad. North Korea is without a doubt one of the most unstable and downright scary places on the planet. That they have been in a 50-year cold war with my current home-country should be much more frightening than it is. But here's the deal: the concerns of my American friends remind me of these things, and without them, I probably wouldn't give the north much thought. Surprising?

Most Koreans are not worried about North Korea in the slightest. My co-teacher once told me that many Koreans - herself included - see Kim Jong Il's rocket play as nothing more than malevolent chest thumping - actually, the word she used was "hobby." In practice, North Korea only effects the south in a few very basic ways, none of which are particularly scary. First, all Korean men must begin a term of military service between the ages of 18-25. But these terms are usually just pesky recesses from life, in which the young men perform mindless work (one friend of mine told me he cut down trees for most of his tour) in rural parts of the country, and apparently all have an awkward experience with a hooker. Second, Korea* is essentially made into an island since there are no available land routes connecting to the rest of the Asian continent. Though all that means is Koreans have to fly more, and they do so easily out of Incheon airport, which I can resolutely say is the best airport I've ever been in. Save for the monthly "Invasion Preparedness Drill" - which actually are pretty surreal - the presence of North Korea does very little to effect the daily goings on in the south.

My feelings on this casual attitude are mixed. On one hand, I'm glad to be part of a society that's not living in a state of fear and constantly prepping itself for a war. In fact, and I see the absurd irony in this, I was much more afraid while living in the United States. I know that Koreans see America as a much more dangerous place, and they're exactly right - despite who their northern neighbor is. But I digress. Ok, on the other hand, IF - and this is a big if - but if North Korea becomes violent with the south, I can easily scamper on back to the USA. Koreans can't leave. They are 'in the fight' so to speak whether they like it or not. As a result, I feel it's perhaps a little foolhardy to be as relaxed as they collectively are. Then again, how do you go about creating a viable, thriving country when all you can do is prepare yourself for imminent doom? I think the answer is that you can't have it both ways. You either move on with the business of self-improvement or you muster the troops. Korea has clearly chosen the former, and I think the country is better off for it in the long run.

Like my American friends, Koreans also inquire about my feelings towards North Korea. They often want to know if I feel scared, and I quickly tell them that I don't. So then I ask them how they feel about the north, and while their answers are mixed in many ways, one thing is constant: South Koreans are deeply troubled by the divide, but not afraid of it. They want to be united. The idea of family connection between all Koreans is very real to people here. Essentially, the fact that so many Koreans share family names - Lee, Park, Kim, Cho - is indicative of a general feeling of connectedness. North Koreans and South Koreans are all part of the same ethnic group, and people here are tragically aware of that. I think that it genuinely pains a lot of people here that they cannot share Korea's newly-found wealth and stability with their northern brethren. There is not a hatred of North Koreans by any means - more a frustration with, and anger towards their leader and his cadre. Hearing Koreans talk about their desire for unification is something that I find tremendously touching, and it reminds me of just how momentous it will be when the border patrolmen do finally holster their arms. I can't tell you how proud I will be if I can take my children to a united Korean peninsula. The kimchi will never have tasted better.

*I've started using South Korean and Korean interchangeably. I mean, how many North Koreans do you know?

Jujeon Taxi Service

My friend Sam - aka Kuntz Machine, aka the Machine, aka Machine - and I have made a habit of having dinner every Monday. We have both committed ourselves to hectic teaching schedules this semester, and Mondays are one of the few days where we can actually punch out at 5pm. Usually we'll just sample tried and true Korean barbecuse in our neighborhoods, but last Monday was different. Sam decided it would be good if we went out to the Jujeon seashore and drop some pseudo-heavy coin on raw fish. I obliged, and off we went.

My raw fish experiences in Korea have been hit or miss at best. I've quietly convinced myself that Korea's anti-Japanese sentiment has relieved them of any responsibility to prepare good sushi. It's almost as if they find it patriotic to butcher such a delectable treat. Don't get me wrong; Koreans can cook like the best of them. The food might end up being my favorite thing about this place, but westerners don't do fish on the bone - which is the de facto fish serving in Korea. We yankees have been weened on the Japanese tradition, which is most certainly not thriving in the RoK. So you can see why I had serious doubts about the veracity of Sam's claims that his chosen restaurant was 'otherworldly.'

Surely enough, Sam came through. The fish blew me away. You could immediately tell that nothing in our meal had ever seen the inside of a freezer - a feeling I've pretty much never had in Korea. It was, without a doubt, the best fish I've had here. And the best part? The restaurant itself was about as sparse as any I've ever been in. Sam and I had the whole place - basically the owners' two-story house - to ourselves. I always feel somewhat circumspect of restaurants whose food and aesthetic seem equally labored over. Shouldn't the main attraction be on your plate? I didn't need muted lighting and expensive wall paper to speak to the quality of this joint. If only more American restaurants would take note. The game is in the food, not the distractions!

I don't want to say that we had a trek back to our houses, but Jujeon is a sleepy community that is noticeably different in look and feel from our urban environs. To say the least, cabs are not easily gotten, and buses almost impossible. We hadn't considered this, but just as we began to discuss our options, the owner's wife flashed her car keys at us. We looked at each other. "Is she driving us home?" And just as quickly we found ourselves in her backseat, being whisked over the mountain that separated her 'hood from ours. In effect, she closed down her restaurant to do this for us. Would that ever happen in the US? I think you all know the answer. It was a magical experience.

Roo-minations

It's that time of year again. Bonnaroo '09 is in full swing, and I couldn't be farther from it. And what a year to miss! I basically have to go 1/4 down the line up to find the first band I wouldn't be pumped about seeing. So what will I do to celebrate the weekend? Well, besides playing a little frisbee under today's perfect Korean sun, I'm going to indulge in some nostalgia. Here, for your viewing pleasure, are some snapshots from my own Bonnaroo ('06) experience. Three years have passed, but the images are no less vivid. In fact, they will probably be seared into my mind for longer than I care to think about. Enjoy your weekends. Hopefully there's room in there for a little good music.

Pleasant Surprise

I've always been aware of Larry King, but I suppose I seemed to think of him as sort of a joke. He was certainly always portrayed as such when I would read about him. From his heap of ex-wives, to the nearly 60 year gap between him and his youngest children - King just seemed somewhat too ridiculous to take seriously. He is a fossil, no doubt about it. But, I don't think he would deny that, and just recently I've come to believe that his antiquity is kind of what makes him awesome. That's right... I think Larry King is awesome.

Why? Because he just might be the last truly classic interviewer of our time. Sure, there are tons of people out there who can conduct a riveting interview, but none - at least in my opinion - do it with the panache of a Larry King. He was schooled in the world radio when radio wasn't a poor man's TV. Radio was IT. Being on radio was the ballgame, and making it meant you had genuine talent as an entertainer. King may look eerily frog-like, but his talent is undeniable. And the stupefying longevity of his career is a testament to that.

Just watch the video above and tell me you don't feel the charm just ooze out of him. The man is probably one of the most gifted story tellers I've ever heard. His are like your grandfather's greatest stories, only he's just beginning. Do yourself a favor and commit 15 min to the video. I would love to know what you think.

... eh hey.

Tell me the resemblance isn't uncanny.

Have a good weekend!

So because all I can think about is this Levon Helm show, I figured I might as well throw out this video before I descend into another weekend. This is actually the last song the fully united band ever played together.

I'm on the list.

In 2002, I discovered The Last Waltz. It changed my life. The Band's music was instantly recognizable, but mystic and somewhat impenetrable at the same time. I would later discover that whatever mystery they had lay in the fact that their musicianship was deceptively brilliant, and more or less unparalleled. My young ears simply couldn't understand what was going on. I couldn't understand how a song like Stage Fright resonated with me, becuase I certainly had never heard anything like it on the radio. I couldn't undrestand how I felt such a connection to a band without a clear leader, because hero worship was something I was very into at the time (see: Eddie Vedder, Jimmy Page, Bob Dylan). The Band's music was instinctively mature - something I was not, but something I needed to become (or at least try).

But, just as the Band's music was steeped in integrity, so too was their decision call it quits. The Last Waltz was the finale. They are one of the few bands that has never fully reformed, despite the obvious payday that would follow. However unfortunate this is for the fans, I think the absence of a reunion has kept their legacy in tact. Nobody will have to watch Robbie lose his speed, and nobody will have to see Garth miss a few notes in Tears of Rage. We're all better off this way. Suffice it to say, I never had dreams of an authentic live Band experience. I was content with the reality that live Band would only exist in my heart, my ears, and my mind. It would never be truly tangible.

Today, only three original members remain - Robbie Robertson, Garth Hudson, and Levon Helm. There is no way that these men will play together, and even if they did, their sound would be a shadow of what it was while Richard Manuel and Rick Danko were around. However, Band fanatics still have one last opportunity to taste the energy these five men once created - and that lies with Levon.

Several years ago, Helm decided to open his barn studio to the public for a series of intimate concerts. These shows - called Midnight Rambles, after the travelling minstrels Helm saw as a boy in rural Arkansas - propsered, and brought Helm's heavenly gifts back to the fore. The price of admission is not cheap, but again, this is the closest a Band fanatic can get to the real thing, and I think any of us will tell you that there's nary a price we wouldn't pay to have that. Midnight Rambles don't issue tickets. You are immediately added to a list after dropping the bills. I'm proud to say that, as of last night, I am on that list.

September 5th... Woodstock, NY... me... profoundly loving my life.


- Levon.

- the opening of a Midnight Ramble (I'm not sure what's going on with the kids).

Gnawing Passion

Totally forgot to relay this story to you guys. This week at my afterschool class the smartest kid lost at the game we were playing. Another kid was making fun of him for losing, so he bit her forearm. It brke skin and proceeded to bleed all over the game board... which we later threw away. No one wants to play on a blood stained game board. The girl's arm was alright, minus the instant bruising, blood and teeth marks. The smart kid burst into tears right away and then the girl who was crying went over to him and said "don't worry.. it's okay."?!! wtf. My CoT barely reacted or scolded the kid. Maybe it's a common occurance or he has a biting problem. Who knows.

- as told by Jen Lisi.

Answer me!

Three weeks ago I began teaching two evening classes at another school three times a week. These classes certainly make those days very long, but the kids are sweet and very engaged. Though I'm definitely TIRED at the end of these days, it's a real treat to hang out with some of these young'uns.

Ok, rewind three weeks to my first day. I arrived 30 minutes early for a small intro/orientation, and then got put in a classroom with a typed list of questions to ask my new students - who are all in the 4th to 6th grade range. That means none of them have been learning English for more than 3 years - keep that in mind.

These 20 questions were supposed to guage both their listening and speaking ability. I didn't end up using any of them. Here's a smattering of the 20 - I hope they convey the point I'm trying to get across.

Remember, the organizers of these classes prepared the questions in advance, assuming they were level-appropriate. I'm also not paraphrasing. The questions below are directly from the sheet, which I saved for this very opportunity.

1. What is the difference between western culture and Korean culture? (This could be a college essay).
2. What is the biggest stress in your life?
3. What country do you think will become a world super power in the future? Why?
4. Talk about a habit you have tried to break or foster.
5. What do you think is the biggest problem in Korea? Why?
6. What are some bad things about your personality?
7. What kind of food do you usually eat? Do you think the way you eat is healthy?
8. Does your father smoke? What do you think about smoking? (notice there is no hint at a mother being able to smoke...)

I hope this says something to you about the amount of pressure these kids have to learn our language. I give so many of them my utmost respect and admiration, because the truth is I - even as a 23 year old man - could not handle what they do on a daily basis.

p.s. - Hardly any of the beginner students could correctly answer when their birthday is.

Hey remember that... before the recession? Pt. 11

Nu metal.




(note* I was probably guilty of liking the first two tunes at one point. However, I ALWAYS hated Big Truck. That someone would ever decide that "BIG TRUCK!" is a suitable chorus will always be beyond me.)

Times were simple. Life was good.